I went to the Great Wall today, doing a tour where we hike 10 km from Jinshanling to Simatai, a stretch of some of the wildest and least touristy Wall.
Many more poetic and descriptive things have been said of the Great Wall than I can hope to write. So I will suffice with this: it defies superlatives. It's a three hour drive to Jinshanling, and we left before dawn, so I caught up on sleep and met some of my traveling mates: an Australian spending a year or so traveling around the world, an Englishman on his way to Thailand to winter somewhere sunny, an international executive for J&J, a Canadian couple, a Belgian, an incredibly handsome American (ha ha ha), another American engineer from Phoenix, and a...you know, I never got Max's nationality. Quite a group.
It was a great hike under sunny skies in 50-degree weather. I'll post a few pictures - sifting through them all to find the best will take a bit longer and social hour just started in the hostel bar.
On the way back, a lunch buffet was included in our tour. Either the coke can or this lunch led to my first experience with *ahem* "gastrointestinal difficulties." I ask the driver to pull over and sure enough, only squat toilets. I had until this point avoided them, but fate had now decreed otherwise. [WARNING: Content of a scatalogical nature follows.] The first challenge was to figure out just how far to drop your trousers. The answer: to the knees - going farther leads to irreconcilable geometries, as I discovered. And you know what, it's actually quite a comfortable way to go, assuming clean facilities. The only odd thing is that your "product" is not disappearing into an unviewable area beneath you. You're kind of stuck looking at it (at least the beginning stage where you still have to conciously aim). I suddenly feel kind of free - the fear is gone. I am a Veteran of Squat!
On the rest of the drive, we all swap travel tips, horror stories, and favorite places. I am beginning to feel a little under the weather - six hours of sleep (again), a long hike in the sun and wind, and an off stomach. I nap a little and think I might call it a night after a hot shower. But the shower reinvigorates me, and so I decide to hit one of the vegetarian restaurants.
A cab ride later, I am somewhere near the restaurant. I acknowledge but don't mind that I'm going to spend a half-hour feeling lost trying to find the place: the distance from the taxi to the actual front door is always longer than the taxi ride. The guide book says it's in a housing complex. I spend the next 20 minutes walking around, asking strangers for help (I swear, unless you ask someone in direct sight of your destination, you get vague waves), and finally find it. (How the hell did the Lonely Planet guy find this place!?) Ahhhh. I decide to splurge - my second to last night in China, ack! - and get the prix fixe. Discreet Buddhists decorations, absolutely amazing music (I asked the waitress to right down the name of one), and great food. I must have a Beijing accent (not a lot of "r's" but strong ch and sh), because more people seem to understand me here.
Tomorrow, the Forbidden City and Imperial Archives, a little shopping, and then finish up with a Chinese acrobat show and a dinner at the even fancier vegetarian restaurant in the guide book.
Ack - my second to last goodnight,
Dan
Many more poetic and descriptive things have been said of the Great Wall than I can hope to write. So I will suffice with this: it defies superlatives. It's a three hour drive to Jinshanling, and we left before dawn, so I caught up on sleep and met some of my traveling mates: an Australian spending a year or so traveling around the world, an Englishman on his way to Thailand to winter somewhere sunny, an international executive for J&J, a Canadian couple, a Belgian, an incredibly handsome American (ha ha ha), another American engineer from Phoenix, and a...you know, I never got Max's nationality. Quite a group.It was a great hike under sunny skies in 50-degree weather. I'll post a few pictures - sifting through them all to find the best will take a bit longer and social hour just started in the hostel bar.
On the way back, a lunch buffet was included in our tour. Either the coke can or this lunch led to my first experience with *ahem* "gastrointestinal difficulties." I ask the driver to pull over and sure enough, only squat toilets. I had until this point avoided them, but fate had now decreed otherwise. [WARNING: Content of a scatalogical nature follows.] The first challenge was to figure out just how far to drop your trousers. The answer: to the knees - going farther leads to irreconcilable geometries, as I discovered. And you know what, it's actually quite a comfortable way to go, assuming clean facilities. The only odd thing is that your "product" is not disappearing into an unviewable area beneath you. You're kind of stuck looking at it (at least the beginning stage where you still have to conciously aim). I suddenly feel kind of free - the fear is gone. I am a Veteran of Squat!
On the rest of the drive, we all swap travel tips, horror stories, and favorite places. I am beginning to feel a little under the weather - six hours of sleep (again), a long hike in the sun and wind, and an off stomach. I nap a little and think I might call it a night after a hot shower. But the shower reinvigorates me, and so I decide to hit one of the vegetarian restaurants.
A cab ride later, I am somewhere near the restaurant. I acknowledge but don't mind that I'm going to spend a half-hour feeling lost trying to find the place: the distance from the taxi to the actual front door is always longer than the taxi ride. The guide book says it's in a housing complex. I spend the next 20 minutes walking around, asking strangers for help (I swear, unless you ask someone in direct sight of your destination, you get vague waves), and finally find it. (How the hell did the Lonely Planet guy find this place!?) Ahhhh. I decide to splurge - my second to last night in China, ack! - and get the prix fixe. Discreet Buddhists decorations, absolutely amazing music (I asked the waitress to right down the name of one), and great food. I must have a Beijing accent (not a lot of "r's" but strong ch and sh), because more people seem to understand me here.
Tomorrow, the Forbidden City and Imperial Archives, a little shopping, and then finish up with a Chinese acrobat show and a dinner at the even fancier vegetarian restaurant in the guide book.
Ack - my second to last goodnight,
Dan
Love you on the Great Wall..really incredible photo! Travel safely back to the USA! Love, Momn
ReplyDeleteFlightAware tells me you are on your way back to the USA! (Good Good Good) Having touched the beautiful Chinese culture for a brief time, can you now see how wonderful life is and yet fleeting in the realm of daily living! Travel safe! The journey is yours forever and no one can ever take it away from you!
ReplyDeleteHAHA! Great story! Can't wait to see all your pics!
ReplyDelete